Old Fashoned

Please read this through!
One minute reading time will give you the
basics and show you how easy it is to use
Milk Paint and our Milk Paint Primer.
Six more minutes will give some helpful hints and also provide you with information about good painting and decorating practice.

© 1993 The Old-Fashioned Milk Paint Company, Inc.

Please read this entire Direction Sheet
before using this product

1. Measure about equal amounts of powder and water into separate containers. (Note: Warm water helps.) The one pint package contains about one and a half cups of powder and, with a cup and a half of water,
it will make approx. one pint of paint.
2. Add powder to the water until you achieve the desired consistency. For a wiping stain, use more water. For a thicker paint as used in stencilling, use less water, or add more powder.
3. Mix thoroughly for 2 to 3 minutes. By hand is fine, or you can use a kitchen portable beater, a blender,
or a drill with a paint stirrer. Let stand for 10-15 minutes. Paint will thicken, add a little more water
if needed.
4. Optional, for a smoother paint finish,
strain through cheese cloth.
5. Clean all tools now so paint doesn’t dry on them.
6. Stir paint every 10 minutes or so to keep it from settling. Unused portions of Milk Paint can be stored overnight in a refrigerator. Cover with plastic wrap held in place with a rubber band. It’s best not to mix more than you plan to use that day.
7. Apply with a dry brush, roller or spray gun. Sponge brushes are easy to use and don’t leave brush marks. Real Milk Paint is naturally somewhat streaky in color. This is normal. The most even color is achieved by spraying. Next best for evenness is by roller application. For spraying, paint should be a little thinner than for brushing, and should be strained. Spray with conventional spray equipment at about
30 lbs. pressure. Adjust pressure and nozzle to get a good paint film, not dry and not runny. A little practice and you can spray a Windsor chair in about three or four minutes.

For New Wood Only...
(Note: No primer is necessary, the first coat acts as the primer on most softwoods and open-grained hardwoods. However, close-grained hardwoods such as maple and birch will require an initial coat of Milk Paint Primer or, add Extra-Bond to the
first coat as in “C-2” below.)
1. Wipe down the item with a wrung-out wet rag to remove any dust and to pre-dampen the surface.
2. Then, seal knots if any, with shellac (apply first coat of paint while shellac is still tacky) OR paint knots using a small amount of prepared Milk Paint with 30% Extra-Bond added.
3. Paint the entire item with a first coat of paint.
4. After an hour or more, if you wish, you can rub down the first coat lightly with a Scotch-brite pad, fine sandpaper or non-oiled steel wool.

Now, if it looks like it needs it, you can apply a second coat of paint.
5. If you like the look and the rough texture, your masterpiece is finished’!
6. Optional: After a couple of hours, or overnight, you may wish to rub down to a satin-smooth surface and/or “distress” the finish. You can rub down the paint as in No. 4 above, either dry or with oil. You can do any distressing at this time. Try and practice any of these options on a test piece first!
7. Another option. Sealing the surface on table tops, kitchen cabinets, floors, etc., is recommended. Without a sealer, the paint is fine, but it will waterspot and readily absorb dirt. Any sealer will work over Milk Paint. Watco or #66 Oil is excellent but will darken the paint color. Wax is fine but it could show rings in table tops. Clear gel finishes and most solvent based finishes usually work well as a sealer, but like oils and waxes, will darken the paint color. However, we have developed our own finish, CLEAR COAT, a non-toxic, water-borne, clear, satin acrylic. We believe it has some advantages over the other mentioned. Our CLEAR COAT is a very low odour, hard, non-yellowing, clear acrylic, that works well, can be brushed or sprayed, is fast drying, and darkens the paint least.

On new Wallboard, new Plaster, and non-porous surfaces such as Glass, Metal, Enamelled Surfaces, and Pre-primed Materials.
1. Surface must be clean, sound and fee of oil, grease, dust and dirt. Glossy surfaces should be dulled. Raw metal should be primed with a rust inhibiting primer. On sheetrock or masonry
that has joint compound over joints and nails, joint banding or photographing may produce problems caused by the difference in porosities and surface texture of the face paper of sheetrock or the toughness of masonry and the smoothness of the joint compound. When viewed in direct lighting, the joints may be visible. To avoid this phenomenon, an initial coat of sheetrock precoater or equivalent latex wall primer, (available at most paint stores,) may be advisable. Then proceed as shown below.
2. Paint one coat of Milk Paint. Note: On surfaces that have already been prime-coated with an oil-based primer, you have to add some of our Extra-Bond acrylic to the first coat only of Milk Paint, which will greatly increase adhesion of the Milk Paint. To use the Extra-Bond, measure out 2 parts prepared Milk Paint and 1 part Extra-Bond. Stir the liquids together.

Previously Painted Surfaces.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Unless you know the condition of the surfaces beneath the previous coats, we do caution you about the use of Milk Paint over multiple layers of paint that may have been applied without proper cleaning beforehand. Milk Paint dries very rapidly and shrinks in all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases to cause the weakly bonded underlayers to peel off, thereby creating serious problems.
1. Good finishing practice states that any surface to be painted or re-painted must be clean and dulled, not shiny. All grime should be removed with a washing soda such as T.S.P., and shiny surfaces
Continues: Page 2

Wood Finish Supply Quality Materials For Professional Finishing
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Wood Finish Supply
Revised: 87/20/2007 Comments to the author: wfs@woodfinishsupply.com
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